Sea state
A term used to describe the combination of various waves in the ocean in a specific area. The combination of these waves may include ripples, chop, wind waves, and swell, and all from a multitude of different directions. In surf forecasting terms, a "pre-existing sea state" left in an area by a previous storm, can greatly enhance the swell in a following storm passing over the same area within a 48-hour period if the sea state is going in the same direction as the fetch of the new storm.
Shoaling

When waves approach shallower water near shore, their lower reaches begin to drag across the ocean floor, and the friction slows them down. The wave energy below the surface of the ocean is pushed upward, causing the waves to increase in wave height. The longer the swell period, the more energy that is under the water. This means that long-period waves will grow much more than short-period waves. A 3-foot wave with a 10-second swell period may only grow to be a 4-foot breaking wave, while a 3-foot wave with a 20-second swell period can grow to be a 15-foot breaking wave (more than five times its deep-water height depending on the ocean floor bathymetry). As the waves pass into shallower water, they become steeper and unstable as more and more energy is pushed upward, finally to a point where the waves break in water depth at about 1.3 times the wave height.
Sinus Drain
Post-surf nose drip. When we wipeout, water is bound to find its way into the nasal cavity-that opening behind our noses that processes air as it is inhaled. The nasal cavity boasts a roomy space of several cubic inches. When water settles within the cavity below nostril level during a session, it puddles so long as we're sitting upright. If, later in the day, we bend down or somehow force the water upwards, the floodgates are opened. Surfing A-Z