Surfing Dictionary S-T
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
S
Sand through
An error in manufacturing, in which the sander cuts through all the resin/glass layers and exposes the foam core.

Sanding Resin
(see hotcoat)

Sandpaper
Coarse paper mounted with a variety of grit types, used in most stages of surfboard making. For instance, a type of sandpaper known as sanding gauze is often used by the shaper to do a final smoothing and tuning of the shaped blank. Thick-grit paper is used with a disc-sanding machine to cut away excess resin following the hotcoat, and thinner paper grades are used to restore the original shape of the board. Finally, very fine grades of paper are used to cut back the final glosscoat ready for polishing.

Santa Ana Wind
The hot, dry, and gusty offshore winds in Southern California that are actually born near the Rocky Mountains. Typically seen between September and February, the offshore breezes begin when a ridge of circling high pressure builds over the Great Basin, forcing air down slope from that plateau. That air is then pushed westward out through the deserts where it warms at a rate of 5 degrees per 1,000 feet before kissing incoming swells (and fanning autumn fires) on the coast at anywhere from 25 to 50 knots. Homeowner's fright, surfer's delight. Surfing A-Z

Scattered peaks
A surf condition in which waves break apart into different peaks/lines with a clear separation between the ridable shoulders. This is usually caused by two swells from different directions and or periods overlapping the same break. Also called "Broken up".

S-Core
Trade name for the hollow surfboard blank designed by sports equipment company Salomon and made from styrene foams and carbon fiber; still in r-and-d in early 2003, and not yet commercially available.

Sea state
A term used to describe the combination of various waves in the ocean in a specific area. The combination of these waves may include ripples, chop, wind waves, and swell, and all from a multitude of different directions. In surf forecasting terms, a "pre-existing sea state" left in an area by a previous storm, can greatly enhance the swell in a following storm passing over the same area within a 48-hour period if the sea state is going in the same direction as the fetch of the new storm.

Seams
Seams-The connecting area between panels on a suit; one of the most important zones and the focus for much of new developments in wetsuit technology. (See: flatstitched, blindstitched, double blindstitched, taped, stress point taping.)

Secondary swell
The second dominant swell at a specific location like a buoy.

Section
 A self-contained part of a breaking wave that breaks prematurely ahead of the original curl of the wave. The curl of a perfect wave will peel off without any sections. Obviously, most waves aren't perfect, but sections can create great opportunities for maneuvers like floaters or re-entries.

Set 
A series of waves approaching the lineup. Waves almost always arrive in sets, and the periods in between sets are called lulls. 
 

Shallows
Generally, water depth less than one-half the wavelength (distance between wave crests) of the waves is considered shallow water.

Shape
The term used to rate the quality of waves as they break down the line. Perfect shape is if the waves peel off down the line without any sections. Average shape might be if the waves peel off but has various sections the surfer must navigate around. Poor shape is if the waves are closed out or if a surfer can't make it through the sections down the line. Also the outline and specifications of a surfboard, and/or the action of shaping a surfboard.

Shaper
The surfboard worker who planes and sands a blank to the desired shape prior to glassing. Not necessarily a designer (see designer)

Shoaling
 
When waves approach shallower water near shore, their lower reaches begin to drag across the ocean floor, and the friction slows them down. The wave energy below the surface of the ocean is pushed upward, causing the waves to increase in wave height. The longer the swell period, the more energy that is under the water. This means that long-period waves will grow much more than short-period waves. A 3-foot wave with a 10-second swell period may only grow to be a 4-foot breaking wave, while a 3-foot wave with a 20-second swell period can grow to be a 15-foot breaking wave (more than five times its deep-water height depending on the ocean floor bathymetry). As the waves pass into shallower water, they become steeper and unstable as more and more energy is pushed upward, finally to a point where the waves break in water depth at about 1.3 times the wave height.
 

Shooting the curl
A term from the 60's used when a surfer trims right along the breaking part of the wave, almost in the tube. Now fairly outdated.

Shorepound,shorebreak
Waves that break right on the beach. Usually not surfable, and more powerful and steeper than a normal beachbreak, because the waves shoal and break quickly due to the fast transition from deep to shallow water.

Shortboard
A smaller, performance surfboard generally in the 5 to 7 foot range, designed for maximum speed through turns.

Short-period swells
A term used by Surfline surf forecasters to identify swells with swell periods under 15 seconds between successive waves. These swells are not able to wrap into many protected areas because the swell energy does not extend deep enough for the swell to interact with the ocean floor. Short period swells wrap and grow very during the transition from deep to shallow water.

Shoulder 
The unbroken portion of a breaking wave. A surfer will ride from the breaking part of the wave toward the shoulder or unbroken part of the wave. "Ridable shoulders" usually means that the waves are makeable after you take off on the peak. Sometimes called corners.
 

Shredding
Advanced, high-energy surfing with powerful snapping maneuvers.

Sideshore
Winds that approach the waves from the side, parallel to the coastline, rather than directly from the land or ocean. Side offshore is when the winds approach from the side and slightly from the land blowing into the wave faces, which create cleaner conditions. Side onshore is when the waves approach from the side and slightly from the ocean, which create bumpier, sloppy conditions.

Significant Wave Height
The average height of the highest 1/3 of all the waves at a given location like a buoy. Practically all wave model charts show significant wave heights. The intent is to provide an accurate simulation of an experienced observer who reports on the wave climate, which would approximately fit the definition of the significant wave height.

Significant Wave Period
The dominant swell period of the highest 1/3 of all the waves at a specific location.

Single fin
One-fin surfboard design dating back to the first use of the fin on a surfboard (by Tom Blake of the USA in the 1930s); combines a high degree of control with little drive. Some longboards or big wave surfboards are single fins today.

Sinus Drain
Post-surf nose drip. When we wipeout, water is bound to find its way into the nasal cavity-that opening behind our noses that processes air as it is inhaled. The nasal cavity boasts a roomy space of several cubic inches. When water settles within the cavity below nostril level during a session, it puddles so long as we're sitting upright. If, later in the day, we bend down or somehow force the water upwards, the floodgates are opened. Surfing A-Z

Skeg
An older name for a fin on a surfboard. (see fin)

Sloppy
Disorganized bumpy or choppy waves from the wind, currents, or tides.

Slotted
Positioned perfectly in the tube or under the curl of a wave. Can also be the same as getting barreled or tubed.

Snake-
Snake-A person who regularly sneaks around behind other surfers in order to take more waves; the act of doing so. This is done in breach of etiquette according the Surfline Bill of Rights and Lefts.

Snapback
A quick, short cutback into the power of the wave. Often used in a steep part of the wave when the quick maneuver will keep the surfer in the "power pocket" of the wave. Also used when the wave is too fast to offer a chance to do a full cutback because the wave would pass the surfer by.

Sneaker set / Sleeper set
A rogue set of waves that usually catches all the surfers in the lineup "sleeping" or not paying attention.

Soft board
Soft board-Surfboard for beginners with a soft-top or deck constructed of a firm foam-like material. Some older soft boards also have soft but slick bottoms. Much safer for beginners to use when learning as they are less likely to get hurt if the surfboard hits them.

Soul Arch
A classic maneuver when a surfer arches his back through a critical section of the wave to demonstrate casual control. Most people equate the soul arch with one man: Peter Townend. Surfing A-Z

Soup
An older term used for the white water from a broken wave. Also called whitewater.

SPAC
Abbreviated term for South Pacific.

Spat out
When a surfer completes a deep barrel or tube ride in a hollow wave, and exits the tube at the same time air compressed within the tube, is also forced out of the tube as spray with the surfer.

Spilling Waves
Generally a scientific term used to describe a soft wave when the crest breaks gradually as the wave travels to the shore.

Spin out
Spin out-A wipeout caused by the fins of the surfboard releasing their leverage in the water so the surfboard will slide out from underneath the surfer. Usually caused by a surfer turning too hard in a steep part of the wave, or if the surfer turned too hard when going over a bump in the water.

Spit
 The spray that exits a hollow tube or barrel, which is caused by compression of the air inside the tube, so the air is forced out through the front of the tube. 
 

Springsuit
Short armed, short legged wetsuit, often 2mm. Used in cool water. (Some companies make long-armed springsuits.)

Squaretail
A surfboard tail shape in which the rails end suddenly, forming a box shape; the squaretail floats well and is usually part of a small-wave surfboard design.

Squashtail
A modified squaretail in which the square tips are softened; the squashtail combines squaretail flotation with some of the pintail's sensitivity.

Stall 
A maneuver designed to slow down a surfboard so the surfer can let the power portion of the wave catch up.
 

Standout Break/Standout Spot
A surf forecasting term for a standout break is the best surf spot for the incoming swell direction and swell period. A standout spot is usually at one of the best-exposed beaches for the swell and has a combination of good focusing properties that allows the swell to capitalize on as much available swell energy as possible.

Steep
A) A very vertical wave face where the crest or lip of the wave throws forward to create a tube or barrel. B) Also used to describe a swell which is approaching a forecast location at a very sharp angle compared to the direction the coastline faces. The incoming swell energy may be just on the edge of the swell window, which usually means only the very best exposed breaks to the incoming swell, will be able to pick it up. C) A term used by the National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) to describe the dominant sea state at a buoy. For a given wave height, steep waves represent a more serious threat to capsizing vessels or damaging marine structures than broad swell.

Stick
Slang for a surfboard.

Stinger
A surfboard design featuring a dramatic cutaway section just tailward of the wide point and terminating in a singlefin swallowtail; credited to Ben Aipa of Hawaii and ridden with tremendous creative success by Dane Kealoha, Button Kaluhiokalani and Mark Liddell in 1975/76; also ridden by Mark Richards in that period.

Stoked
Extremely happy or elated. An original surfing term.

Storm Surge
The abnormal rise in sea level accompanying a hurricane or other intense storm, caused primarily by wind stress on the water. Storm surges are greatly enhanced when the storm winds blow the water into partially land-locked areas like bays where the excess water can't escape. The measurement of the storm surge height is the difference between the actual observed sea level associated with the storm and the normal sea level that would have occurred without the storm. Increased storm surge may also occur from the reduction of atmospheric pressure associated with the lower pressure in a storm or cyclone.

Storm Warning
A warning issued by the National Weather Service when current or forecasted ocean surface wind speeds are sustained at 48 knots (55 mph) or greater in a specific area. Generally not associated with tropical systems.

Stormy
Trashed surfing conditions with strong winds, large chop in the water, and generally accompanied by with rain, hail, snow, and/or lightning. Overall a great time to find something else to do.

Straightening off
Describes a move in which a surfer turns toward the beach when the wave has closed out or is too fast to make down the line. Used if/when there isn't an opportunity to pull out over the top of the wave. In larger waves the surfer may opt to lay down on the board to hang on.

Stress point taping
Gluing tape is cut into small pieces and placed on seams in various pressure points throughout the suit, such as at the elbows, knees, and under the arms. The goal is to provide durability where necessary while keeping as much flexibility as possible.

Stringer
The wood or glue lamination point, usually in the center of a surfboard. Wood stringers add weight but give the board much more strength. Most stringers are single laminations down the center of the surfboard. Some classic or older surfboards have three stringers for additional strength and weight. Also used by shapers as a central point for shaping measurements.

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S -(continued)-

Subtropical Cyclone
A low-pressure system generally located between 15 and 35 degrees Latitude that has characteristics of both tropical and extratropical cyclones. These generally short-lived systems may be either cold core or warm core.

Subtropical Depression
A subtropical cyclone in which the maximum sustained surface wind speeds are less than 33 knots (38 mph).

Subtropical Storm
A subtropical cyclone in which the maximum sustained surface wind speeds are greater than 34 knots (39 mph).

Superstretch
(ultrastretch, highstretch etc) Trade name referring to a particular brand's most flexible rubber. Often only used in high-motion areas (i.e., the shoulders) as it's generally considered less warm and durable than other kinds of neoprene. (This changes dramatically from year to year; what was last year's superultrahigh stretch is this year's boring old neoprene.)

Surf beat
The rhythm of periodic rise and fall in coastal water levels caused by sets of waves as they arrive and create a surge and pileup of water along the surf zone. During and immediately after the sets of waves, the water level along the shore rises from all of the wave energy pushing water to the shore. Once the sets of waves cease or lull, the water will escape back out to deep water-sometimes in the form of rip currents or rip tides ¨¢ before another set of waves arrive to complete the cycle called the surf beat.

Surf height
The measurement of breaking waves along the coast. Surfline measures wave heights by the face of the wave for consistency in communication. When communicating we also compare wave heights to a surfer's body height. Figuring a surfer averages 5 feet tall when semi crouching and surfing a wave: 1 foot = ankle high; 2 feet = knee high; 3 feet = waist high; 4 feet = chest high; 5 feet = head high; 1 foot overhead = 6 feet; 2 feet overhead = 7 feet, etc.; 10 feet = double overhead; 15 feet = triple overhead, etc. NOTE: Hawaiians and a few other areas throughout the world measure waves by the back of the wave and they estimate the waves backs to be one half of the wave face height. The Hawaiian's intent is probably to stay consistent with the deep-water swell height of the waves before they began to shoal, as compared to the wave heights on Buoy 51001 located NW of Kauai. However, this procedure is inherently flawed because numerous variables like swell period, refraction, and shoaling can greatly alter the transition of deep-water swell to breaking waves by 1.5 times to 5 times the original deep-water swell height

 

Surf Leash
The urethane cord used to attach a surfer to a surfboard or bodyboard. Also called a leg rope. Surfing A-Z

Surf zone
The area along the coast where there are breaking waves and lines of whitewater moving shoreward toward shallower water and the shore. May also include an offshore deepwater reef where there are breaking waves and whitewater.

Surfari
An older surfing term for a surf trip, from African safari.

Surfer's Ear
Long-term exposure to cold water and wind leads to a build-up of bone within the ear canal called diffuse exostosis, or surfer's ear. The auditory-afflicting condition worsens with repeated exposure to the elements until surgery becomes the only respite from total hearing loss. Surfer's ear takes years of cold-water sessions to develop, so the affliction is endemic to older surfers. For more see Surfing A-Z

Surfology
The science of surfing, surf forecasting, and the surfing lifestyle.

Surform
A tool similar to a file, used by some shapers to make minor cuts and corrections to a shape before final finishing.

SurfTech
Trade name, which may become generic, describing a type of epoxy molded surfboard-manufacturing process ("Tuflite").

Surging Waves
A scientific term to describe waves that don't have time to break because the transition from deep-water to shallow water is too fast. Very little white water is evident before surging waves reach the shore. Typically happens in many areas during high tide.

Swallowtail
A tail shape in which the rails end suddenly and a vee is cut back in toward the stringer; the swallowtail combines the rail drive of the squaretail with the sensitivity of the pintail.

Swell
A) Wind-generated waves that have traveled beyond their generating area, usually from a storm far out to sea. Strong winds in a storm will transfer wind energy into the water, which will create waves. As the waves grow larger with continued wind, the energy will transfer deeper below the ocean surface. As the waves move out of the storm area, the stronger waves with more energy below the ocean surface will maintain their strength over distance and will be characterized as deep water waves or swell. B) Termed as the significant wave event arriving at a surfing location created by a storm out to sea, as all of the waves from the storm arrive over a period of time consisting of hours or extending over days. C) Wave energy in deeper water before the waves begin to shoal over shallow water and break.

Swell direction
Where the swell is coming from. In the marine community, swell direction is always identified from the swell source, not its destination. See direction.

Swell Height
The average height of the highest one-third of the swells with swell period energies over 11 seconds. Shorter period wind wave energy with periods under 11 seconds is excluded.

Swell Period
The peak period of the swell energy in seconds. If there are multiple swells at a specific location, then the peak period of the dominant swell is used. This is the time between successive wave crests as they pass a stationary point on the ocean surface, such as a buoy.

Swell shadow
The area behind islands, points of land, or other obstacles where the swell and waves have been blocked by those obstacles. The swell shadow will change with different swell directions.

Swell window
The opening through which swell and waves may pass between islands or around points of land. The swell window will change with different swell directions.

Synoptic Chart
A chart showing various meteorological observations and conditions over a given area at a specific time.

T
Tail
The rear 12 inches of a surfboard. 


Tail patch/Traction pad
see deck grip.

Tailslide
A maneuver in which a surfer breaks the fins free from the water so the tail slides around quickly. A very difficult maneuver and somewhat counter-intuitive, since it's based on taking weight off the board, not pressurizing it. The surfer must stay above the surfboard, staying in physical contact to maintain control. Popularized in the early '90s by Kelly Slater and friends. Surfing A-Z

Tandem Surfing
The act of two people surfing together on a single board. Tandem riding was born at Waikiki. Over the years, it has evolved from a man and a woman standing together on a single board to a series of technical lifts and international competitions. Surfing A-Z

Take-off
The beginning of a ride when the surfer paddles for a wave, and then pushes his/her body up to a standing position before he drops into the wave. The take-off is crucial for a successful ride as it sets the rhythm for the entire ride.

Taped seams
Nylon tape is glued along the seams, covering up whatever stitching exists. Long considered a necessary evil to keep water out and add strength to the seams; often now only used at specific pressure points (see stress point taping) or replaced by liquid seam tape, a more flexible and perhaps equally durable option.

Template
A wooden sheet cut into an imaginary surfboard curve, used by a shaper or designer to draw outlines onto a blank prior to shaping. A template is made of thin plywood, plastic, or Masonite. The outline curve of one side of the template may be an outline for the nose of a surfboard, while the outline curve of the other side of the same template may be an outline for the tail section of the surfboard. Surfboard shapers typically create their own templates and come in all sizes and shapes depending on the type of surfboard to be shaped. See also outline. Surfing A-Z

Tertiary swell
The third dominant swell at a specific location. The primary swell is the dominant swell, followed by the secondary swell, followed by the tertiary swell.

Thickness
A surfboard's dimension as measured from the deck to the bottom of the board.

Thruster
Three-fin surfboard design created by Simon Anderson of Australia in 1980; now the most common fin setup used by surfers, the Thruster combines drive and control in most surfing situations.

Tint
Chemical used to color the resin used to seal fiberglass onto a conventional surfboard; largely replaced by airbrush paints through the 1980s, but still used in some quarters for its unique retro look.

Titanium
A soft metal occasionally weaved into neoprene as early as '91, supposedly to reflect heat back to the wearer.

Tombstoning
A post-wipeout phenomenon, when a surfer is deep underwater with the surf leash stretched out to a point where the tail of the surfboard is being pulled down, so the nose of the surfboard sticks up in the air like a tombstone. Usually happens in larger surf. Surfing A-Z

Tow Surfing
The act of towing into waves behind a personal watercraft instead of paddling into waves. A major pull for big-wave surfing. Surfing A-Z

 

Towboard
surfboard designed specifically to be used during tow-in surfing, usually in very big surf; usually marked by drastic reductions in length, width and thickness, and by equally drastic additions to overall weight through ultra-heavy blanks and glass jobs. Towboards often feature footstrap setups, not unlike sailboards and/or kiteboards. Surfing A-Z

Trim
A state in which the surfer and board travel across a wave face at precisely the speed needed to maintain position on the wave, without turning. Trim speed is a fundamental "go-to" for beginner surfers and super-skilled pros alike.

Tropical Cyclone
A warm-core cyclone, originating over tropical or subtropical waters, with a closed surface wind circulation around a well-defined center. The associated maximum sustained surface wind speed will range from 34 knots to 63 knots (39 to 73 mph). Ocean water temperatures need to be at least 80 degrees Fahrenheit to maintain the development of the cyclone, which is the extraction of heat energy from the ocean and heat export at the low temperatures of the upper troposphere.

Tropical Depression or Disturbance
A warm-core cyclone, originating over tropical or subtropical waters, in which the maximum sustained surface wind speed is 33 knots (38 mph) or less.

Tropical Storm Warning
A warning issued by the National Hurricane Center (NHC) that winds within the range of 34 to 63 knots (39 to 73 mph) associated with a tropical cyclone are expected in a specified coastal area within 24 hours or less.

Tropical Storm Watch
An announcement for specific coastal areas that tropical storm conditions are possible within 36 hours.

Tropical Wave
A trough, disturbance, or cyclonic curvature in the trade-wind easterlies originating over tropical or subtropical waters. Tropical waves are the first sign of possible future tropical cyclone development.

Trough
The lowest part of a wave as it begins to break. Or in deep water, the middle or lowest area between two wave crests.

Tsunami
Commonly (and incorrectly) known as a tidal wave, a Tsunami involves long period ocean waves generated by earthquakes and other geological or tectonic disturbances below sea level. Tsunamis can travel at speeds of up to 500 knots through the open ocean. While they may be of low height in deep water, the shoaling process as they approach land can increase the tsunami to heights of over 35 feet or more in bays or other restricted areas.

Tube
See barrel.

Tucked edge
A rail design popularized in the late 1970s in which a "soft" or rounded rail is finished at the bottom with a slightly angled edge, providing bite and release.

Turtle
 
A paddling maneuver to help reduce resistance when paddling through whitewater, by rolling the surfboard upside down (with the fins up), and then holding on to the rails of the surfboard while underwater as the whitewater passes overhead. Used especially with longboards because the board's increased flotation makes duckdiving (the preferred method) difficult.

Two-wave hold down
During a radical wipeout, to be held under water for two successive waves. Usually only happens in large surf with very foamy conditions which make it difficult to swim to the surface. The actual time underwater may only be about 30-40 seconds long but seems like an eternity if you're the actual surfer being held down and fighting to rise to the surface.

Twinfin
Two-fin surfboard design with a long and fascinating history; identified most strongly with four-time world surfing champion Mark Richards, who rode a twin in most of his contest successes outside Hawaii. The twinfin combines drive with release to create a very free design, which can be hard to control.

Twinzer
Four-fin surfboard design created by Will Jobson of California in 1990; adds control to the instability of the twinfin design.